Thursday, February 26, 2009
Many aha moments. I think I see what she is doing….it is fairly easy to slap a few layers of dye or stamping or screening on a light-value piece, but it is something else to start with a dark value (and already taking up most of the dye sites on this light-weight 12 mm silk) and bring it back to life. This smoky blue is exactly the same color I see when I look outside in December and January. It is a combination of the low, dark ceiling of wet clouds, the distant foggy and wet mountains, the wet driveway, my wet Gore-Tex jacket and hat after my wet walks. It is everything that makes me depressed in this bizarre climate. Using lively colors and imagery will help pull me above SAD.
I see that 402c Mixing Blue discharges to a good white whether it is a light value or dark value of the blue. This is great! Spent some time looking at the tools I already have and could use with this piece, and tools I might need to make. Have decided not to make any new silk-screens for this as there isn’t time. Think I want to use a couple of my older screens and then do the remainder with brushes and unthickened dye.
December 29: At the same time I am working on this challenge, I am learning how to use my new digital camera. I am on p. 13 of 123 pages, and so far the only thing I have learned is that I shouldn’t carry my digital camera in my back pocket because it could blow up if I sat on it.
December 30: Dye not yet arrived. Spent the afternoon sketching some design ideas. I know I want to discharge most of the blue. The tied resist circles, all on the same plane and all close in size. I wonder how I could design this piece so that the circles appear to be different sizes from each other and more scattered. Is this fiddling too much with Jane’s initial design? Is this permitted? Is this ethical? Having been raised in the 40’s and 50’s, I was taught to wait and ask for permission. How many opportunities have I missed doing this? Took me many years to unteach myself. Well, in her guidelines Jane gave us a lot of leeway so I shall forge on.
December 31: Dye arrived this morning. Dyed some of my own 12 mm with the dye to use as test pieces and for auditioning dye colors and paint colors.
January 1: Coated the test piece with flour paste. The formula I used became very thick after five minutes. Was difficult to spread on the silk. Just before the flour was dry, I impressed on one half with a Wel-Cote texture roller in what they call their “Swirl” design, which is more like overlapping shells, and then also circles with an oval whisk. Let it dry overnight.
January 2: Painted on Dye-Na-Flow in #812 Periwinkle and #822 Sulphur. Lesson learned: use a much lighter touch with the tools. I am also experimenting with gel medium as a permanent resist, and continuing with the flour paste.
January 9, 10, 11: LAYER 1 - Screened the matte gel onto the challenge piece. LAYER 2 - After the matte gel completely dried, I discharged the entire piece. There was a change to a much darker blue under the matte resist, which was a shock. It will make a difference in how I use my dye colors. Must change my color plans. I really liked the lighter blue under the discharge better.
January 13: LAYER 3 - Painted on flour paste. Found that I had to do this in stages, letting one area dry before going to another area. Let dry overnight.
January 14: Painted Dye-Na-Flow Sulphur and Periwinkle on LAYER 3.
While this was drying, I dye-painted my third test piece with new colors, dried it, steamed and stabilized it. It is so freeing to just paint dye stock solution on cloth rather than having to mix it with sodium alginate. I like the feeling of moving my arm and brush across the silk, observing how hues layer on top of each other. It becomes a meditation. The colors on this last test piece are gorgeous and just how I envisioned them. Even the depth of shade is perfect. Am I ever thankful I did all that testing beforehand.
January 15 – 17: I added dye layers, steaming in between. With this set of primaries which is new to me, because of the blue 402c, I have found a whole new palette…mustard, olive greens, rusts. Beautiful.
In the back of my mind, I have been imagining a secret room in a Bruges cloth merchant’s house circa 1400s where there is a stack of velvet sent from Italy for dyeing. When the historian discovers the room in 2007, the rich olive greens and purples have faded over time into mustards and lavenders. I am working on achieving the look of folded cloth piled in a corner. So far, the imagery is confusing, or, to use a Yiddish word, it looks too ongepotchket (to rhyme with Fonda Lodge kit) I am hoping to tame this when I add the textile paint layer.
I digress. Yiddish is such a colorful language. Ongepotchket means, “Slapped together without form or sense, messed up, or excessively and unaesthetically decorated, overly baroque.” (From The Joys of Yiddish) “Mr. Fleishman, a new art collector, bought a painting which was much admired by his friend Myerson, a self-proclaimed expert: The painting was one large square of black, with a dot of white in the center. A year later, Mr. Fleishman bought another painting by the same modernist genius: A large square with two white dots. Proudly, Fleishman hung the picture over his fireplace and telephoned his art maven friend Myerson to come right over. Myerson took one look at the picture and wrinkled his nose; “I don’t like it. Too ongepotchket.”
Thought I would interject some humor for my gentle reader in all of these “First I did this,” and “then I did that,” and “I didn’t like that so I did, blah, blah.”
February 4: My two weeks away on vacation have given me a fresh look at my challenge piece. My fresh look tells me that I am still uncomfortable with the composition, but that this color way has many possibilities. Applied the vat dye LAYER 9 this morning.
February 6: Added textile paint with a wall texture roller - the last layer - LAYER 11, in five colors: Lumiere Halo Violet-Gold, Setacolor Amethyst, Jacquard Metallic Violet, Setacolor Light Copper, and Lumiere Metallic Olive Green.
Conclusion: When I took my last digital photos of the finished cloth, and saw the completed piece as a whole through my camera, I was amazed that I had created another landscape, not the pile of ancient velvet cloths I imagined. I thought I’d exhausted my need to focus on landscapes, but I see I now have more landscapes waiting to be realized. I am reminded of Ralph Waldo Emerson’s quote, “The earth laughs in flowers.” My challenge piece looks like irrigation circles in fields of wildflowers.
Finished with one week to spare! I have had a sense of anxiety while working on this challenge; at the same time, however, each new layer brought such a sense of joy and discovery and new design challenges. I can say I am satisfied with this piece and eager to share it with the world.
Overwriting the alphabet with a fabric marker and applying circles with a stamp, setacolor opaque, shimmer gold paints.
Design decision: finished or not? Not!
Enjoying the painting with acrylic. Not sure if they would keep good on the silk. Test: washing out the test piece - no problems, the colours keep well on the fabric.
Monoprint for more focal point with Javana Tex vanilla. Applied too much, so I rub off some of the paint.
Pressing and washing out: keeps well, but I feel it is too bright in relation with the other colours.
Painting on the white areas with acrylics - Javana Tex opaque dark blue and Javana Tex sunny, bright blue, turquoise and carmine red.
Last finishes with wax crayons (Neocolor I from Caran D’ache)
Washing, pressing, finish!
Also, I rarely work with silk.
Tried leaf rubbings with Jacquard Discharge Paste—got no impressions—just diffuse areas of discharge. Maybe silk is too soft to make an impression with the slippery paste. Or maybe the fact that I used some old, acrylic-coated leaves? Will try the only remaining leaves in the garden—oak leaf and hydrangea-- and try using textile paint.
The pigment (blue Jacquard) worked well with both old and new leaves. Painted over the circles with watered down blue Peintex with a little black mixed in. They are much less obvious. Used the Peintex in a few other areas also. I’ll print over the painted areas in the next stage as well.
Screen printed leaves in 2 sizes with illumination paste (1 part Jacquard Discharge Paste to 1 part Jacquard paint). Used thermofax screens and a red-orange paint. Really liked the way the leaves stood out even on the blue background, thanks to the discharging. (Used the leftover paint on some commercial black fabric and that worked well too—this will go into my repertoire for sure—was happy to learn that it is ok health and safety-wise)
The areas painted with Peintex really stick out—my attempts at a loose watercolor effect just look like accidental blobs. What to do???
Turned Peintex blobs into squares and rectangles—they look a little dark but much better design-wise; relating to geometric areas resulting from leaf printing with blue Jacquard. I plan to cover some accidental white lines (from original discharging) with metallic paint or maybe Shiva Paintsticks to resemble branches. Can extend lines to go over the blue shapes to inegrate/ground them...
Decided on the paintsticks, gold covered with copper, following white lines and adding more. I think this works with the overall design as well as softening the blue shapes. Will heat set and wash in a few days, keeping fingers crossed!
Heat-set and washed successfully. Photographed and ready to send off.
Conclusion: In retrospect, I learned a lot, some of which I’m sure I will use in future work. It seems as if most of what I did was a result of trying to solve a problem encountered in the previous step, but I’ve concluded that problem-solving is in the nature of art and is what keeps us going to the next thing.
Contact Dominie Nash at dominienash.com
Jane Dunnewold sent a 2 yard cut of 10mm silk habotai dyed with Procion MX mixing blue - with tied resisted rings down the middle of the length. There were five circles on my cloth.
Before I received the cloth, I knew that I wanted to add dimension and holes to it. When I saw the cloth I felt I should keep some form of Jane's tied circles in it.
To begin, I retied the five circles with artificial sinew, wet the cloth and scrunched it into a plastic pan with the five points down. I poured hot thiorea dioxide water over the cloth - it didn't cover it - and microwaved it for several minutes until the fabric started to discharge. The discharging occurred only on the bottom of the pan where the cloth was sitting in the bath. I rinsed the fabric.
The circles are still tied - I again scrunched the wet fabric into the pan with the points sticking up and squirt bottle dyed the fabric with soda ash activated Procion MX dyes, microwaved for a few minutes till hot and steamy, waited until cool, then washed, took off the sinew and dried.
This was interesting, but kinda boring So.......
I tied up the five circles again and tied 18 more circles in a grid, and also tied some fan folds across the piece. I wet the cloth and scrunched it again in a pan, bathed it in the thiorea dioxide solution, microwaved - took a lot of color out. I rinsed and scrunced it back into the pan where I redyed with the mx dyes. Again the microwave - hot steamy - cool down - removed the sinew - washed and dried, much more interesting.
Next, I printed a couple of motifs with soda ash activated, sodium alginate thickened, MX dyes. One was my hand carved stamp. The feather was a commercial stamp. I spritzed a little soda ash water over the cloth, wrapped it in plastic and microwaved it till hot/steamy, then washed and dried.
The feather motif seemed too strong. I thought after washing, it would back down, haha, any MX color with fuchsia in it never backs down! With my circle stamp I applied a mixture of sparkly gold paints over the red feather. Better.
Now for the holes. I cut circles of freezer paper and arranged them on the fabric and ironed them on. I stabilized the holes by applying paint around the freezer paper circles. After the paint was dry, I cut out the circles. I ironed/pressed the painted parts to set the paint.
I decided to use some "hot fix" Angelina in the holes, hot fixed some and cut into circles to fit the holes. I cut some water soluable stabilizer to back the holes so I could sew the Angelina into the holes. I dabbed fabric glue stick on the stabilizer so it wouldn't move. I stabilized each hole in an embroidery hoop, and free motioned (using the sewing machine with the feed dogs in the down position) the Angelina into each hole. I soaked the fabric in warm water to remove the stabilizer - washed/dried.
Now for the dimension. As I worked on the main fabric, I was discharging and dyeing several other pieces of silk in the same colors as the main piece. I cut strips of this silk and used Misty Fuse to fuse them together, back to back. I free rotary cut triangles from the strips and then rounded two corners with scissors. If you pinch the rounded end together, the triangle stands up when sewn down. I used fabric glue stick to hold the dart; I sat at the table and glued and ironed each dart to set. The triangles were zigzagged on, around the tied circle shapes, at random.
The final process was to iron on foil shapes using Wonder Under. I then washed the cloth one more time to make the triangles floppy and to rough up the foil shapes.
Conclusion: At each stage of the process, except for the dyeing parts, I practiced the process on a different piece of silk. The holes with Angelina and free motion sewing on silk were problematic. The free motion sewing would draw up the fabric; the hoop was the answer, but I thought I'd have to take off the machine foot for each hole. I realized I could lift the foot over the hoop as the foot has a spring and the needle would go up a little more too. Foiling has always been beyond me, but I read about using it with fusible web so have made a sort of peace with it.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Decided to wait a bit before diving in, and “listen” to the cloth. Did some research on Mixing Blue 402c, and learned it should discharge to a grey. This should be good. I did a test, and it discharged completely, to a wonderful white. You definitely knew what you were doing when you pre dyed our pieces with this Mixing Blue. Fantastic – got to get me some of this stuff from Pro Chem. Knowing it will go white, anything could happen.
After a week of listing possibilities and ideas, and generally procrastinating … I decide to let the elastic band marks guide my start. I also decide that I want to respect the original blue in some way, so must enable some of it to shine through. Using my husband’s glass marble collection, and some old golf balls of my dad’s … I elastic band wrap lots in a zig zagging swirl down the middle area, and then position 4 golf balls in outer edge areas. 186 marbles, 4 golf balls …Then a quick discharge bath in thiox, and ….
Now what? Cloth started blue, so I figured complementary oranges might be a nice place to start. Listen to the cloth.
I arranged the white bound silk in the largest plastic tray I could find in our basement. Lucky for me, I already owned something big enough to lay 2 m of cloth into. Next step was going to be tray dyeing, using some basic primary MX: Pro Chem Golden Yellow 104, and Pro Chem Mixing Red 305. Used 1 tsp powder dye in 1 c of water, to make a simple concentrate solution.
Blue outlines I had expected, but the blending of golds, oranges to reds, ended up being much stronger and brighter than I had expected. On cotton, these basic primaries are much more toned and less in your face. What did I expect? Silk is not cotton.
Lots of possibilities to overdye, add more bound shapes? Decided to use some even smaller glass beads to elastic bind into areas. To widen and thicken the curves of the zig zag. Elastic bound these. Then, soda soaked the cloth in 9 T soda ash, plus 1 gal water. 20 minutes. Squeezed out excess. Arranged back into the large tray. Only wanted to drip drop various dyes over top of the new bound beads, and some over the edge red areas. Used 1 tsp Pro Chem ProIntense Blue 406, in 1 c water. Dripped and eye dropper dropped. Covered tray, batched overnight. Rinsed well.Hmm … got the little squares and some nice soft blue in the original squares. But the red didn’t soften as I had hoped.
Asked a few dyer friends about silk and dye saturation points … none really had experienced this. Hmm … maybe it’s the soda soaking? I really want to darken those edges. So … against the odds, I re tried the soda soaking, using a 3 T Maiwa Brown in ½ c water concentrate. This was a super dark concentrate. Tray dyed again, and poured and spooned concentrate directly over areas I wanted darker. Batched 8 hours. Was looking great in the tray. Rinsed. Oh no….. most of the beautiful darkness washed down the drain. Cloth had darkened a bit, but not like it should have. Boo hoo. Well, now what? Looks as though using dye was out of the question. Would need to start using fabric paints.
Maybe potato dextrin texturing might be interesting. That way I could paint in dark Setacolour into the crackles, and darken in a subtle manner. Never tried potato dextrin before, but was willing to try it to get those wonderful organic crackles. Just happened to have a bag in the cupboard. It’s surprising what one accumulates over time. I forged ahead with the application. It dried with great cracking and veins. Sure hope this works – had to wait 2 days for it all to dry on the dining room table. Once dry, I even crumbled everything up and made even more cracks into cloth surface by squeezing it all up tightly. Had just received the latest Quilting Arts issue, and couldn’t believe it when I saw your article about flour mixtures over cloth. As I waited for my “potatoes” to dry, I marveled how coincidental the timing of your article seemed.
Hard to believe that with all that dark paint, only these light cracks showed through. Now how am I going to darken areas I want darker?
Guess I’ll have to resort to printing or screening. I’m not very skilled at either, and seem to make blobs in unwanted spots, but what choice do I have? Made up some potential thermofax screen images – photocopies of elastic bound marbles, done in soft swirls and curves. Looked OK, crisp copies. Oh Oh, tattoo shop closed – staff gone on holidays. They’re the only shop nearby with a thermofax machine. I’m just going to make stamps and print areas darker.
Once cloth dry, I brushed Opaque Setacolour firmly and harshly into the cracks and over dextrin surface. A mix of Raw Sienna and Black – a great dark brown. This better work. Edges were now very dark brown. Let it rest 24 hours, as I was now running out of time to finish this whole challenge. Soaked, rinsed, soaked, rinsed. Only minor cracking marks emerged. So sad … the veining is definitely interesting, but not enough to truly give the effect I had sought. When and if I use dextrin again, I’m going to begin at the white, flat cloth stage, and really go to town with the cracks and use pure black Setacolor. Feeling the push to finish. It’s now Feb 15th and the cloth needs to be mailed by the 23rd. So …. using Colorhue Brown, mixed with some Scarlet and water, I begin darkening.
First the cloth was misted with water, to dampen. Then, using a natural sponge, I begin to sponge on the browns. Maybe now this darkness will stay in the cloth. Woops, the phone rings and I make the mistake of answering it and talking for several minutes. I’m too late to remist with water and soften the sponge marks. What’s to be, is to be. Oh well, at least things are darker nowI then added even more printed squares around the edges. But that lower golf ball square is looking odd and lost. Hmm … What to do? I decide to discharge it using Jacquard Paste and then change its colour. Something to counter or provide more balance and tension to the upper three squares? The discharge paste works fine, and lightens it to a soft yellow – but then I remember, everything now needs to be washed thoroughly to remove the paste residue, before recolouring. There’s no turning back … so I fill the sink, and in goes the cloth. I hold my breath, and …thank goodness, no colour bleeds out. I am so lucky. I let everything dry overnight, and re pin to printing board to add more printed sponge squares.
I begin to colour in the lightened larger lower square with Caran dAche Neocolor II water soluble crayons. Trying to create a similar turquoisy blue as in the centre swirl. Maybe this will be OK, but I need to let it dry. Tomorrow will be my last day being able to work with the cloth. It’s got to get in the mail.
Things looked OK dry – so I added just a very few more printed squares before I went to work. This was it – I knew it had to dry during the day to allow me to iron and package for tomorrow. What I’ve created is not truly finished, but all I can do given the time at hand. I would love to keep darkening the edge areas, maybe with more Colorhue? More printing? I’d love to add some foiling – a glimmering swirl down the centre, with a few sparkles throughout the outer areas. Maybe even some Shiva rubbing texture?
Conclusion: Oh well. Enough is enough, I have to get things mailed off to reach Texas in time for the Mar 1 due date. I am happy with some areas, but disappointed in many. It’s not quite what I had envisioned, but it’s the best I could I do. I am not an expert at any of these techniques, just a fearless adventurer who loves to play.
I began with 2 ¼ yds 12mm silk haboti already dyed with PROchem Mixing Blue 402C. Down the center of the cloth were 5 circles that had been produced by a tight rubber band resist when it was dyed blue.
To introduce more color and subtle striping, I did arashi shibori, wrapping the cloth around a 6” pvc pipe. I made large folds, as I didn’t want to produce a strong striping image. The pipe was soaked in a soda ash solution for 30 minutes.
- Squeezing out excess solution, I applied Lemon yellow and Havana Brown (separately, not mixed together) by direct application. Each dye was mixed in a urea/water solution for application. The cloth then batched on its tray overnight. The cloth was then rinsed in cold water, unwrapped, and soaked in synthropol bath for an hour, rinsed, and dried.